Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and. The crack system is probably around 2530 degreee overhanging so its pretty sustained and the climbing works with a mixture of finger locks, thin hands and the occasional hand jam. Hello tom, just a quick note to say thank you for your advice at the crack climbing thing you did down at boulders in cardiff. British rock climbers pete whittaker and tom randall have made the first ascent of black mamba, a 5. The discipline is offwidth, or wide crack climbing, and its specifically in a really, really big roof so youre hanging upside down for a lot of that time. Well known for his acquired taste for offwidth crack routes, randall consistently sets himself the highest standards and the hardest lines. Wild country crack school episode 1 finger cracks with. His partnership with pete whittaker as one half of the wideboyz has seen him establish and repeat many of the worlds hardest cracks. In a way, i have the climbing covered as ive done plenty of that, but. Jan 17, 2019 crackclimbing experts pete whittaker and tom randall introduce their very own branded climbing volumes. Ive been looking for something for quite some time that would take my crack climbing on a significant step in terms and strength and power. For an extra challenge, both constructionwise and climbing, you can build the crack in different sections with each section set to a unique angle, say, a 45degree crack into a roof crack.
Unless you live near indian creek or yosemite valley, or your local gym has graciously included cracks in its wall plan, specific training for crack climbing can be hard to come by. Two climbers from england, pete whittaker and tom randall, set out to explore this world and climb the worlds hardest offwidth. Establishing the worlds hardest offwidth century crack. This is tom randall talking about the moves on the kraken v, his devon roof project a 40 ft long horizontal roof crack at hartland quay. Describing himself as a trad climber or adventure climber. The british crack climber tom randall in an interview. It is one of two projects randall made for himself, the other is the gondo crack. Beta climbing designs, the uk importer for sterling ropes, have arranged for us to interview their team climber tom randall. Dec 12, 2019 whittaker though, along with habitual climbing partner tom randall, has a penchant for hard crack climbs and over the years he has gained the reputation for being one of the best crack climbers in the world. Tom randall is one of the founding members of the infamous wide boyz, as well as cofounder of lattice training and sublime climbing. Tom has worked extremely hard over the last two years in a cellar in sheffield honing his crack climbing skills. Crack climbing mastering the skills and techniques with. Oct 06, 2019 the crack system is probably around 2530 degreee overhanging so its pretty sustained and the climbing works with a mixture of finger locks, thin hands and the occasional hand jam.
Tom randall is a modern day institution in the world of british climbing. Ambassadors pro rockclimber tom randall the primal pantry. The pair is renowned for their brutal training and success on the hardest cracks in the world. Video comment 1 wild country crack school episode 3 fist cracks by tom randall and pete whittaker 2 leavittation. Today its toms turn to teach us how to use finger locks and jams for thin crack climbing.
Crackclimbing experts pete whittaker and tom randall introduce their very own branded climbing volumes. The recovery drink and the worlds hardest crack climbs. Ollie torr is a v climber and coach, and he is using the data gathered from their study to pursue his ph. Tbp 091 tom randall and ollie torr on their training. What is the biggest difference from crack climbing to other types of climbing. Nov 15, 2012 directed by chris alstrin, paul diffley.
Just a few days ago was the premiere of wideboyz ii at the sheffield adventure film festival. With jay anderson, tom randall, bob scarpelli, pete whittaker. This past april, pete whittaker and tom randall spent three weeks in and around moab, utah, climbing hard first ascents, repeating difficult. Roof crack repeat by randall and whittaker necronomicon 5. The first is a brand new bouldering video from alberto rocasolano. The millennium arch climbed in canyonlands by tom randall and pete whittaker 17. Tom randall climbs the insanelooking the kraken v youtube. Tom, along with pete whittaker are best known as the wide boyz. Crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century crack 5. Anyone who followed the quest of wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker, two brits who tore up the u. Then there is century crack, the only offwidth to make this list.
Nov 9, 2012 unless you live near indian creek or yosemite valley, or your local gym has graciously included cracks in its wall plan, specific training for crack climbing can be hard to come by. Tom randall on his crack climbing training from the rc uk. The wide boyz are known for completing the first free ascent of century crack 5. Randall conceived the lattice board climbing assessment tool and he and toor train serious climbers. Gruelling canyonlands crack climbed by pete whittaker, tom randall. Tom randall is a professional climber, entrepreneur and one of rock and ices new online contributing writers. In july, 20 randall sent anna kournikova in orco, one of the worlds hardest cracks. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture. Even the first 20m were brilliant and this was before you got to the roof. These gymclimbing holds are made with wooden boxes and soft grip technology to save. The wide boyz back in 2009, tom randall and pete whittaker made it their mission to climb the worlds hardest offwidth cracks. From acclaimed directors paul diffley and chris alstrin comes a wild journey through the strange subculture of off width crack climbing. News hardest crack line yet for the wide boyz black mamba 5. Join tradprincess and wide boyz, tom randall and pete whittaker for a 3day crack camp spring 2020.
He has taken techniques learnt on his local crags and has applied them with great effect all over the world, most notably on the huge roof cracks in the desert areas of utah, and on the big walls of yosemite. We return to millstone in the peak district, uk, for a tom randall crack climbing masterclass. Pete whittaker and tom randall have made another hard first ascent in the utah desert black mamba 5. Tom randall talks about his climbing obsession gripped. In a change from the sick send show, we are starting a mini tips series with the wide boyz, tom randall and pete whittaker. These crack climbing clinics are going to be filled with crack addicts. In 2011 he teamed up with pete whittaker to take on the worlds hardest offwidth crack century crack, which is documented in the film wide boyz from hotaches. Tom is a keen trad climber and has established many first ascents all over the world, mostly involving some kind of crack climbing. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture rumoured to be dominated by knuckledragging, barbrawling dirtbags. Crack climbing well is a fantastic feeling and learning how to climb cracks opens up a world of routes, and indeed some of the best routes in the world.
Tbp 038 tom randall on his thorough and scientific. The millennium arch climbed in canyonlands by tom randall. Here, tom randall shares his pointers for how to build and make the most of a crack machine for athome training. These angles can be fixed easier to build or made adjustable by using hinges in the crack sidewalls.
Strength and strength are not enough for crack climbing. Handshake method 6 flat overhand knot pull test with wet rope 7 dmm techincal video. He is known for establishing the diabolical century crack 5. Join two brave british lads, pete whittaker and tom randall, as they take on the decidedly american sport of climbing bloody, painful and often dangerous. Oct 02, 2017 tom randall and peter whittaker fa two 5. The route links the bouldering traverse the green shadow to greenspit. Dec 18, 2015 here, tom randall shares his pointers for how to build and make the most of a crack machine for athome training. Establishing the worlds hardest offwidth century crack followed, and the name of the wide boyz stuck.
The wide boyz epic quest to send one of the worlds toughest cracks tom randall on bigger than your boyfriend 5. Since then, a list of those who have sent cobra crack reads like a whos who of international hard trad climbing, and includes nico favresse, matt segal, ethan pringle, alex honnold, pete whittaker, tom randall, will stanhope, and probably a few others whom ive forgotten china doll extension 5. Tom randall is an expert on hard crack climbing and brutal training regimes, but on a recent trip to america he met his. Im just putting across my opinion based on a lot of crack climbing all over the world on multiple rock types. The work that the fa put into those routes is currently not being realised because no one thinks its worth their life to take on a route like ka the reality is that 100s of crack climbers around the world could all give it a good go and have great fun climbing a spectacular route. About tom randall and ollie torr training for rock climbing. Tom randall and pete whittaker made it their mission to climb the worlds hardest offwidth cracks. The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climbers craft. Two climbers from england, pete whittaker and tom randall, set out to explore this world and climb the worlds hardest offwidths.
What we did was we realized that the standard within this type of climbing was relatively low if you look at it compared to sport climbing and bouldering standards around. The balance between technique and strength must be perfect when climbing cracks. Upclimbing, in real time, boulder, crags and multi pitch world news. Tom randall and pete whittakers monster utah roof crack. Unlike the viewing of the first film of century crack, i got to have a sneak peak of the unfinished product and i have to say it made the night feel quite a bit calmer. As one half of the wide boyz duo with tom randall, pete has become synonymous with hard crack climbing. It made a lot more sense being able to apply it as it was explained. Alberto is probably best known for his first ascent of the massively overhanging 8c boulder problem, soyuz, near madrid in spain.
The millennium arch climbed in canyonlands by tom randall and. I love the challenge of the unknown in climbing and i think for me, that trad climbing satisfies this desire. Tom randall and ollie torrs climbing research study results. Join facebook to connect with tom randall and others you may know. Then add in the hazards of spiders, scorpions, and snakes. When i first tried this move i was convinced that my forearm or finger would explode with a loud bang. Whittaker though, along with habitual climbing partner tom randall, has a penchant for hard crack climbs and over the years he has gained the reputation for being one of the best crack climbers in the world. For randall, climbing is allconsuming, but this hasnt always been the case. Weve been climbing together for the last 6 years or so and became a little better known when we developed a major obsession for offwidth climbing and made the first ascent of century crack in the usa.
The crack was first attempted in 2001, and is considered the hardest offwidth crack climb in the world. Tom randall teaches matt to crack climb climbing daily ep. This is tom randall talking about the moves on the kraken v, his devon roof project a. Tom made the first ascent of century crack 5,14b in utah, usa, as well as the first ascent of the kraken v in devon, england. Hes also a renowned climbing coach and founder of lattice training. Alison and myself had a great time and laughed trying to apply it all in pembroke that afternoon and sunday. Apr 05, 2019 when i first tried this move i was convinced that my forearm or finger would explode with a loud bang. In 2011, tom randall and pete whittaker completed the first free ascent of century crack 5. Crack fix how to build a home crack training system rock. Both of them have put their skills as climbers and their passion for the scientific process to use at lattice training, where they do indepth analyses of all of their clients. First and foremost i am a trad climber, or perhaps an adventure climber. Tom randall and pete whittaker aka the wideboyz have made the first repeat of another monster roof crack, necronomicon 5.
760 38 791 1437 1519 622 1430 1193 1186 757 944 377 1400 1101 1220 1121 18 486 923 1098 933 1278 1405 225 572 212 720 1295 1321 1297 584 1422